Imagine a 50-year-old taxi driver in a beat-up but recently washed taxi. He pulls over to the side of the road, and nods off under a dark grey sky, the hallmark of a Buenos Aires winter. He has abandoned his thermos and mate; little green yerba leaves and warm water spill onto the empty passengers’ seat. His body curled over with arms folded to protect him from the freezing air. His head rests against the cold window and condensation accumulates. He only wakes up to cough mightily and curses at the disturbance and his dampness.
All of the sudden a ray of sunlight pierces through the window and the taxi driver bats open his tired eyes. Without hesitation, like a bear awakening from hibernation, he squints, smiles and unfolds into a full-body stretch. He dusts off the dashboard, revs the engine, and starts the day with a renewed energy and refined sense of hope.
Spring has arrived in Buenos Aires.
The Buenos Aires winter may not be as frigid as in other countries, but the way the Porteños (citizens of Buenos Aires) complain, one would think them trapped in the Arctic Circle. The “queja”, or the complaint, is another Buenos Aires hallmark and way of life. Luckily, for them and foreign visitors, the queja is relatively transparent and does not seem sour daily interactions. In winter, the queja is extreme, while the weather might not be – which introduces the queja’s best friend, exaggeration.
While Porteños are busy hibernating and freezing to the bone, deep inside they hold a beat-up yet shiny gem of hope for the fateful day when they can shake off the bitterness of winter and celebrate the holiday (and promise) of Spring. Yes, Argentineans celebrate the Day of Spring (sans gofer) on September 21. However, another important holiday arrives first, and kicks-off the initial recognition that spring is coming: Child’s Day, El Dia del Niño. This holiday, celebrated on the second Sunday of August, the responsibility falls on the godparent’s shoulders, and gifts are expected, if not demanded. Note: To increase the national spending, a popular tactic in Argentina is to promote obscure holidays and encourage las compras.
Fortunately, by Argentinean law, (one that is actually abided by) all employees must earn 13 months of salary a year, and the extra month of cash is given in two parts, one half at the end of July and the other in January. For many people this bonus is a sign of spring and our friendly taxi driver, with his new lease on life, is no exception. He jumps into his car to go buy his godson a new soccer ball and for his goddaughter, a relatively expensive (because it is imported) Barbie. Money is no cause for the queja, the sun has come out, he has his bi-annual bonus, and his wife is preparing a delicious celebratory meal for the entire family. Blue-collar workers who have sucked it up all winter can taste the day when they will retreat to their happy napping spots in the many sunny plazas of Buenos Aires.
For the college-aged crowd, whose age range is much wider than that of most other places, 20 – 35 years, the coming of spring is represented by a huge sigh of relief: Final exams are over. In August, indoor concerts move outside and students still living with their parents can get respite from a nagging mom in the warming spring air. Next>
